Whitecliff Vineyards TraminetteIt has been unseasonably warm this fall so far. The end of September, and 80 degrees or more… while the weather may not be exactly seasonal, it has meant that those summer wines get a chance to shine a little longer. Between this climate and my ongoing “eat local, drink local” kick, a ton of New York wines have made a debut at my table. Today’s wine, a grape I only discovered this past year, is a summer favorite that should last anyone with an adventurous palate well into autumn, if not beyond.

New York has several AVA’s (American Viticultural Areas), of which I consider five to be important right now: Hudson River, Finger Lakes, Long Island, Lake Erie, and the Niagara Escarpment. The Hudson River region, a lovely valley that has been designated as a National Heritage Area, is home to the oldest vineyards still active in the state, and produces excellent Riesling, Cabernet Franc, and Pinot Noir, among other things. The Finger Lakes region is now internationally known for its Riesling and Gewürztraminer, and I put it at the top of my list of New York AVA’s. Long Island has a maritime climate that is ideal for Bordeaux varietals: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc. Lake Erie is still dominated by bulk production for grape juice; however, some serious artisanal wineries are beginning to crop up, putting forth delicious whites and reds for those willing to hunt.

Today’s wine, the 2012 Whitecliff Vineyards Traminette, is a Hudson River native. A hybrid based on Gewürztraminer that is brand new on the viticultural landscape, having only been crossed in 1965, Traminette’s standout features include excellent quality and character, high yields, partial resistance to several fungal diseases, and cold hardiness superior to its parent. In case it isn’t obvious, I just love this stuff. In the glass, a nice pale straw color, with perfumed aromatics and a floral palate. I noted delicate aromas of lychee, orange blossom, baking spice and dried rose petals. It finishes bone dry, and is a great companion to Asian fare. At $16 a bottle, you really just have to find some and see for yourself.

Solagi 2011Spring has finally sprung, so I’m celebrating the warm weather with something weird, something different… something that screams for attention, like AC/DC. Well, it’s a little less heavy than AC/DC.

That something is from a region called Calabria in the south of Italy, a region of arid beaches, olive trees, and gently rolling hills dotted with vineyards. Calabria hosts a  D.O.C (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) that is also a town, Cirò, which is the site of an ancient winemaking tradition featuring an ancient Italian grape: Gaglioppo. Sometimes referred to as the “Nebbiolo of the coast,” and once thought to be a product of Greek colonization, Gaglioppo flourishes in this area, with its calcareous marl soil and sandy embankments. It is a pretty obscure grape that produces pretty delicious wines well worth exploring, making it a perfect accompaniment to the freshness and optimistic tone of spring.

Which brings me to the 2012 Caparra & Siciliani Solagi Cirò. Made from 100% Gaglioppo and aged and fermented in stainless steel vats, this wine is ruby red in the glass, and exudes superb floral and fruit aromas: juicy cherries, lavender, roses, and hints of loam and herbs. In the mouth, the wine is balanced and harmonious, the soft fruit nicely balanced against acidity and firm tannins. Some decent minerality, as well. With structure and finesse this pronounced, one would assume this wine is expensive, but it is most definitely not: it can be found for usually under $20 a bottle. This would pair beautifully with aged cheese and salumi platters, or can serve as a high-end pizza wine. Go get some.

De Forville Dolcetto 2012Quite often, I really do not want a serious wine. Not every occasion calls for a Grand Cru; not every event merits Screaming Eagle. I cannot count the weeknights where my wife’s sisters and their respective significant others piled into my Brooklyn apartment with armloads of fresh ingredients and a culinary vision for the evening. Those nights, we swap jokes that made the rounds before, and jokes that haven’t. Dinner, drinks, and laughter until late. Those nights – which end up being most nights – I really do not want a serious wine.

Enter Dolcetto, one of my favorite casual Italian wines. Dolcetto is a grape primarily grown in the Piedmont region in northeast Italy. The best wines made with Dolcetto are generally found in Alba (as is the case with the one featured). Generally, Dolcetto is known for producing soft, fruity wines meant to be consumed when young; quite the opposite of one of the region’s more prominent grapes, Nebbiolo, which arguably produces some of the most structured wines on earth. Tidbit: the Italian word dolcetto means “little sweet one,” but generally Dolcetto is dry. Its exuberance lies chiefly in its expressive fruit, which tends towards cherries.

Tonight’s wine, the 2012 De Forville Dolcetto d’Alba, is produced specifically in the municipality of Barbaresco, a source of red wines of much renown. This particular example, while humble in comparison to the greats from its region, is still delicious all the same, and for good reason: the De Forville family has made wine in Barbaresco for 150 years. Bright ruby red in color, the wine bursts in the glass with dark cherry and licorice aromas, and is soft and juicy in the mouth, with dark fruit and just enough acidity to match. Finishes soft and fresh. $15 a bottle; try some the next time you order a pizza, preferably with friends.

Senorio de PecinaSometimes, you just need a glass of finest nectar: aged red wine, the drink par excellence. Sometimes you need a wine of utter harmoniousness, depth, sheer complexity; warmth at work against the cold of winter.

Just say it, slowly – let the syllables drip from your lips:

Rioja.

For those frigid nights when your friends have gathered, when the roast is in the oven, when only such a wine will do, perhaps you would be tempted towards a younger vintage, to savor lively cherry fruit and (if produced traditionally) that delicious vanilla and spice flavor. But on those coldest of nights, when one wants to swoon into the happiness of kinship, as Galway Kinnell would say… an aged Rioja can best capture the essence, the brilliance of what a great wine can be.

So, for tonight’s post, just such a thing: the 2001 Señorío de P. Peciña Reserva Rioja Reserva. It has much to offer. For one, it spends 36 months in used American oak barrels, and then is bottle-aged for another eight years. This surpasses Gran Reserva aging requirements, making the Señorío de P. Peciña a very unusual wine, to say the least. It is 95% Tempranillo, with the rest a blend of Graciano and Garnacha. At this point, with 13 years behind it, this is a wine that is ready to be enjoyed.

And what enjoyment! In glass, the classic brick red color, with its age beginning to show a little paleness at the rim. Still bursting with sour cherry, plum, and cranberry fruit on the nose, along with oaky vanilla, hints of toffee, black pepper, and leather… just a fantastic set of aromas. Velvety and round in the mouth, delicious and juicy as well, balanced in all its parts, quenching, beautiful. A lovely hint of candied orange peel whispers in the finish, which is long and silky. At $26, you must.

Cannonau di Sardegna RiservaAnd now for a brief post about one of my new favorite values in Italian red wine. More posts to come soon, fast and furious. Winter is coming – for those of you who read or watch Game of Thrones – and for me, that means red wine: red wine in rivers, in torrents… and in glasses on the table by my couch. If you’re in the mood for spaghetti and meatballs or some similar comfort food… and honestly, who isn’t… where better than Italy to find the perfect pairing?

The subject of this post is the 2009 Sella & Mosca Cannonau di Sardegna Riserva, a totally delicious Cannonau wine from the northwest corner of Sardinia. Sardinia is the second-largest island in the Mediterranean Sea after Sicily, and is home to roughly 4 million sheep, making this island one of the areas of the world with the highest density of sheep per capita; right up there with New Zealand, a truly exceptional wine region in its own right. But I digress.

Cannonau, otherwise known as Grenache, is also one of the most widely planted grape varietals in the world. It favors hot, dry climates, and generally creates wines with soft berry fruit, nice spicy notes, and a high alcohol content, making it good for blending – see Châteauneuf-du-Pape in the southern Rhône valley. Our wine of the hour, the 2009 Sella & Mosca Cannonau di Sardegna Riserva, seems like pure Grenache.

In the glass, a nice brick red color. Aromas of hung game, violets, and a touch of almost Burgundian funkiness hang above notes of dark red fruit. Very solid structure in the mouth, with a round feel, smooth tannins and delicious plummy fruit backed by earth and spice. $15 says you have a new favorite dinner wine for the cold months. Buy it by the case.

Michael PozzanAnother long hiatus! So much has been going on that updates are proving difficult. But I will persevere and continue to post the fine wine bargains until circumstances allow this blog to return to a normal schedule. With marriage imminent, and excitement growing beyond my ability to readily process or contain it, I thought it would be nice to get grounded with my steadfast favorite wine in the whole repertoire: Cabernet Sauvignon. Yep, once again, I’m goin’ Cab.

So many reasons to keep coming back to this noble grape. First off, it’s one of the primary blending grapes in Bordeaux, that most prestigious appellation, and has what I consider an ideal blend of structural potential in its tannins and delicious, dark fruit character. Cabernet Sauvignon is the king of red grapes; all others are mere barons or dukes. And California makes wines from Cabernet that are generally my unabashed favorites; probably something to do with my background.

So today’s wine, the 2008 Michael Pozzan Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, is exactly and ideally typical of Cabernet from the Sonoma region. Knights Valley is one of the original five American Viticultural Areas (AVAs) in Sonoma, and has the warmest climate in the county. All of the fruit sourced for this wine is Knights Valley fruit, and while I wouldn’t say this is a wine of terroir, expressing a unique sense of place, it definitely does show great varietal character with Californian exuberance. 18 months of aging in French oak helps, too. A rich plum color with red brick edges, this bursts with aromas of plum, black cherry, and mocha in the glass. Smooth as silk on the palate, with great tannins buttressing juicy cherry, raspberry, cassis, vanilla and caramel flavors. Long finish; again, smooth as silk. Not flabby at all, this wine has enough acid to pair with food (think T-bone steak, or Beef Wellington), and could age for 3-5 years if you’re of a mind to cellar a bottle or twelve. $15.

Il PiaggioniBack from wedding planning with a vengeance; back with a fresh post about a fresh red wine that’s begging to go down with some steak before the nights get even more hot! Because it has been hot. Summer is finally here, after weeks of rain. And it’s still raining, on and off. Hot, humid… despite how oppressive the mugginess can get, red wine is still my preferred nighttime beverage – the steaks, like the show, must go on, and they must be paired with something, after all.

Most people turn to their established favorites for steaks; Bordeaux or some mid-range California Cabernet would be usual offerings. But when the t-bones hit the grill, I tend to turn to Sangiovese. The perfect balance between acid and fruit makes these wines exceptional complements to grilled meat, if you can bear to briefly abandon the safety of California’s red offerings. Remember, we’re talking about the grape that goes into Chianti, into Brunello di Montalcino. We’re talking about one of the prime grapes of Super Tuscans. More than enough “wine cred” to match anything you’re cooking.

For those adventurous enough to brave the Sangiovese front, this wine, the 2011 Mocali “I Piaggioni” Rosso Toscano, is a 100% pure and fine example of the breed. Mocali is a noted producer of Brunello di Montalcino; this is their “value” wine. The “I Piaggioni” is not aged for as long in oak as Brunello, and the Sangiovese grapes in this Rosso are not from the very best sites (although they are the same clonal selections as those used in Brunello). The flavors do not quite have the depth and concentration you would find in a Brunello, due to shorter aging in oak. However, in the end, what you get is a delicious Rosso with aromas of licorice and cedar, bright cherry fruit, a smooth mouthfeel, excellent acidity and balance, and a nice lingering finish. At $15, it’s hard to ask for more.

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