One thing I love about Australian wines is their consistent intensity, but the real essence of Australian wine goes deeper than that. Something about the terroir, the essence of the landscape and its climate, lends bold and blustering aspects of flavor to Australian wine, reds especially, which I find irresistible. And here is one reason why: The 2004 Fetish showcase, The Watcher. This is 100% Barossa Valley Shiraz, a proprietary brand by Joshua Tree Imports, with Rolf Binder as the winemaker. The wine has complex blue-black fruit and pepper aromas on the nose, with more jammy blueberries, violets, and plums on the palate. It has soft tannins and a long finish, featuring interesting cinnamon notes. A damn steal at $20 a bottle. Pair with any powerfully-seasoned grilled red meat.