Grignolino "Poggeto," La Casaccia, 2008


This is the first Grignolino I’ve ever tasted, and I must confess an immediate fondness for the varietal. Wines made from Grignolino are fairly rare here in the United States, with only a few examples being produced domestically (Heitz being the one example I can name). In general, they tend to produce wines that are surprisingly earthy and tannic, because of the low proportion of juice in the grapes and an abundance of pips, or seeds. Hailing from Piedmont, this particular wine is produced from 50-year-old vines, and the resulting intensity far exceeds my expectations based on the price.

In the glass, the 2008 “Poggeto” is a clear pale cherry in color, and the nose shows bright, fresh strawberry and raspberry fruit with white pepper and hints of leafy vegetal notes. The mouthfeel has great tannic grip for an everyday red, and is also shockingly bracing, with such crisp minerally acidity that the red fruit core seems wrapped in razor wire… in a good way, of course. Complete with notes of tar and roses, and a nice finish, this wine belongs on every table at least one night out of the year. Pair with antipasti or roast beef. $12.

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