2008 Dr. Konstantin Frank Dry Riesling

Riesling is, as I repeat constantly, my beloved grape. A Riesling’s haunting flavors, piercing acidity, the beauty of Riesling grapes on the precarious slopes of the Rhine, the delicate shimmer of a Riesling… nothing compares. Germany, of course, remains the source of all the best Rieslings (although Austria and Australia both produce wines that occasionally force me to drop my jaw). That said, New York’s showings are becoming increasingly satisfying! I love the wine that is the subject of this post: the 2008 Dr. Konstantin Frank Dry Riesling.

Dr. Konstantin Frank merits special attention. He was, after all, the first winemaker in New York State to adopt the Vitis vinifera grape, and produced delicious wines nearly from the get-go, at that. Many years after his initial debut of the traditional European grape species, Dr. Frank continued to have detractors – now, thankfully, those objections have been washed away by the profundity of his descendent’s wines. His grandson, Frederick Frank, runs the family business with an extremely talented band of winemakers, specialists with a global perspective. All this, and seeing the place means you get a trip to the Finger Lakes!

Their 2008 Dry Riesling is the first wine I have tried by this producer, having read many articles about the quality of their lineup. Let me make an account of why it is beautiful. This wine is beautiful because it is a crystalline pale straw tinged with green in the glass. This wine is beautiful because of its lemon-lime citrus and green apple aromas accentuated by slate stone and floral notes on the nose, followed by a steely mineral mouthfeel. This wine is beautiful for its strident acidity, piercing the faithful like lightning. Definitely on the mean side in that regard, but the mineral and apple fruit makes it balanced to my tastes. Great snappy finish. Pair this wine with pork chops, or fresh lobster or crab. Pair it with oysters. Pair it with itself. $14.

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