Quite often, I really do not want a serious wine. Not every occasion calls for a Grand Cru; not every event merits Screaming Eagle. I cannot count the weeknights where my wife’s sisters and their respective significant others piled into my Brooklyn apartment with armloads of fresh ingredients and a culinary vision for the evening. Those nights, we swap jokes that made the rounds before, and jokes that haven’t. Dinner, drinks, and laughter until late. Those nights – which end up being most nights – I really do not want a serious wine.
Enter Dolcetto, one of my favorite casual Italian wines. Dolcetto is a grape primarily grown in the Piedmont region in northeast Italy. The best wines made with Dolcetto are generally found in Alba (as is the case with the one featured). Generally, Dolcetto is known for producing soft, fruity wines meant to be consumed when young; quite the opposite of one of the region’s more prominent grapes, Nebbiolo, which arguably produces some of the most structured wines on earth. Tidbit: the Italian word dolcetto means “little sweet one,” but generally Dolcetto is dry. Its exuberance lies chiefly in its expressive fruit, which tends towards cherries.
Tonight’s wine, the 2012 De Forville Dolcetto d’Alba, is produced specifically in the municipality of Barbaresco, a source of red wines of much renown. This particular example, while humble in comparison to the greats from its region, is still delicious all the same, and for good reason: the De Forville family has made wine in Barbaresco for 150 years. Bright ruby red in color, the wine bursts in the glass with dark cherry and licorice aromas, and is soft and juicy in the mouth, with dark fruit and just enough acidity to match. Finishes soft and fresh. $15 a bottle; try some the next time you order a pizza, preferably with friends.